editor's note: Silent Spring no more

savvy classes: free classes in April and May

garden hotline: slug season

feature story: successful rose gardening, the organic way

savvy advice: grow your own food

Silent Spring by Rachel Carson was published in 1962. Drawing attention to the effects of pesticides on the environment, Carson's book is credited with helping lead to the ban of dichlorodiphenyltrichloroethane (DDT) in 1972. As we move toward the 50th anniversary of this ground-breaking book next year, 2011 is a wonderful opportunity to look at our gardening practices.

This is an important reminder of the significance of our individual actions on the world around us. The Savvy Gardener is here to help you create beautiful and healthy gardens while working with nature. Join me in welcoming a lively, noisy spring!

Pre-registration is only required for the drip irrigation class. Arrive early for the others to make sure you get a space at these popular classes! All classes are free and will be held at the locations listed below.

Easy Plants for Gorgeous, Carefree Gardens
Taught by Peggy Campbell

Saturday, April 23 12:30 – 2:00 p.m.
Molbak's Nursery at 13625 NE 175th St., Woodinville
Cost: Free, no pre-registration required
(425) 483-5000

View class description.

Edible Abundance—Essential Tips for the Northwest Organic Food Gardener
Taught by Marianne Binetti
(two dates & locations)

Saturday, April 16 10:00 – 11:30 a.m.
Furney's Nursery at 21215 International Boulevard,
Des Moines
Cost: Free, no pre-registration required
(206) 624-0634

Saturday, April 23 10:00 – 11:30 a.m.
Sky Nursery at 18528 Aurora Ave N, Shoreline
Cost: Free, no pre-registration required
(206) 546-4851

View class description.

Drip Irrigation Basics for the Home Gardener
Taught by Amy Ockerlander, Seattle Tilth

Saturday, May 28 2:00 - 4:00 p.m.
North Seattle—address and directions will be provided when you register
Cost: Free, pre-registration is required
Register >

View class description.

The Garden Hotline Corner is prepared by staff of the Garden Hotline, the experts who answer your gardening questions at (206) 633-0224 or at help@gardenhotline.org.

Slug Season

How do I keep slugs from devouring my new lettuce crop?

Slugs may seem to be a spring fixture in the Northwest garden, but don't despair! Here are some tried and true methods to help you thwart these critters, who love your crops as much as you do:

• Remove habitat. Get rid of miscellaneous plastic pots or woody debris where slugs congregate during the day. Pull and discard weeds from around your plants.
• Go hunting. Slugs feed on cloudy, cool days or at night; you can search them out with a flashlight and toss them into the yard waste container.
• Use slug traps. Sink empty yogurt containers into the ground and fill them halfway up with beer. Cut a hole in the cover to allow slugs to enter and to keep rain out. Or place a wooden board on an angle in the garden and collect them during the day when they are clinging to the underside of the board.
• Shock them. Apply copper strip tape to the outside of containers you are growing in. Slugs get an electrical shock when they move across metal and will not pass over this strip.
• Bait them. Scatter certified organic slug bait products that use iron phosphate as the active ingredient around the planting area. These baits are safe to use around pets and wildlife and are non-toxic for you to handle.

Check out these Natural Yard Care nurseries (pdf) to see about products in this article.

For free garden advice and information, please contact the Garden Hotline at (206) 633-0224 or help@gardenhotline.org or visit www.savingwater.org.

Successful Rose Gardening, the Organic Way

Learn from the Experts at the Woodland Park Rose Garden

Ah, roses—beauty, scent, romance. . . bugs and blackspot? If you think that growing roses means you have to choose between pests and pesticides, think again!

Did you know that the Rose Garden at the Woodland Park Zoo in Seattle—with its 5,000 roses—is entirely organic? A leader in organic rose gardening, this public garden can show us how to grow gorgeous roses without chemicals.

To find out how the organic methods used at this stunning destination garden can be applied at home, the Savvy Gardener spoke with E.J. Hook, former Woodland Park Maintenance Operations manager. E.J. led the team that made the transition from chemical intensive-gardening to the organic approach, six years ago.

“Work with nature instead of against her or you are always going to lose. If you want to build healthy soil, you really have to stay away from pesticides.” —E.J. Hook

Seven Secrets to Success

E.J. suggests these tips to successfully grow roses—organically—in your garden:

1. Right plant, right place. No matter what you do, if the needs of roses—or any plants you grow—are not met by your site, growing them will be a challenge. Check the resources at the end of this article to see what roses need to thrive.
2. Enrich your soil. Add compost, scratching it into the surface if your roses are already planted.  Otherwise, mix 2 to 4 inches of compost into the top 6 to 12 inches of soil in the planting area, not just the individual planting holes.
3. Mulch. Add 2 inches of mulch to the surface, keeping it away from the stem of the rose. See last summer’s Savvy Gardener article on mulching—for more detailed information about mulch products.
4. Water correctly. Drip irrigation or hand watering is best. This avoids wetting the leaves and helps to prevent fungal disease such as blackspot.
   
   
   • Water early. Morning is best, so leaves that may get wet have a chance to dry off, and to decrease the water lost to evaporation that can happen during the hotter part of the day.
   • . . . And not too often. How often to water depends on your soil, site, and watering system. Check to make sure the top inch or two of soil has dried out some before you water. Water enough to moisten the root zone (check an hour or two after you water to determine this). Water deeply, slowly, and not too often, to avoid developing weak, shallow root systems. When established and properly mulched, most roses can be watered once per week (during the dry season) with 4 or 5 gallons of water per plant.
5. Manage fungus. Make sure you pick off any diseased leaves and dispose of them in your curbside yardwaste collection, as the heat in commercial composting will kill the disease organisms.
6. Fresh air. Roses like air circulation so prune properly, and don’t overcrowd when you plant. Here is one of many online sources of rose pruning information.
7. Prevention is the best cure. Use organic fertilizers and avoid pesticides and fungicides. A healthy ecosystem will naturally resist pests and disease.

“We found that the use of fungicides was preventing the beneficial soil organisms from using the nitrogen we were applying. There was lots of nitrogen in the soil but the plants couldn’t use it. Amending the soil with humus and using compost tea and organic fertilizer began the process of restoring life to the soil. Are the roses perfect? No. But a testament to the beauty of our rose garden is that we have 50 weddings here a year. If the brides and their moms are happy with the roses, you know they’ve got to look good!”   —E.J. Hook

Lessons Learned by the Rose Garden Team

What E.J. and the Rose Garden grounds crew learned was partly the result of using best practices and partly trial and error, and it played out over several years.  The bottom line is:

• Go organic—all the way. Use of chemical fertilizers, fungicides, and/or insecticides can destroy the delicate balance between plant, soil, and helpful soil organisms.
• Compost tea works. It’s a “brew” made from soaking compost in water and then applying—usually by spraying—it to the leaves of the roses. Compost tea helped bring powdery mildew and blackspot under control.
• Use compost. The Rose Garden uses nutrient rich “Zoo Doo” compost or “Bedspread” mulch, which adds extra wood chips and sawdust to the Doo. For availability visit the Woodland Park Zoo's Fecal Fest website.

Are all roses equal?

Many plant lists identify roses that are considered less susceptible to pests and diseases. But no roses will thrive where their needs are not met. At the Rose Garden, no plants were eliminated in the first two years. Eventually, about 3 percent of the roses were replaced but only in specific cases of consistent poor performance. When selecting new roses you may want to use a rose list (pdf), such as this one compiled by Washington State University (WSU) Cooperative Extension. But first things first: try the practices listed in this article and see what a difference you can make!

 “Be consistent and patient. After improving your practices, it can take time to achieve the desired results.” —E.J. Hook

Resources
Find out more about roses and their care:

Disease Resistant Roses for the Puget Sound Area (pdf)

The Seattle Rose Society, or parent organization, the Pacific Northwest District of the American Rose Society provide information on both organic and conventional rose gardening practices.

Washington Toxics Coalition for information about pests, pesticides, and pesticide alternatives.

Woodland Park Rose Garden

As always, the Garden Hotline provides experts to answer your gardening questions at (206) 633-0224 or help@gardenhotline.org.

Attention Locavores: Grow Your Food in Your Own Back--or Front--Yard!

Locavore — one who eats foods grown locally whenever possible (Merriam Webster).

Local garden writer and radio personality Marianne Binetti says:

If spring has you itching to grow your own food and you are not sure where to start, here is my advice to help you get growing:

• The secret to great food gardening—Nourish your soil. If you can’t make your own compost you can buy weed-free compost in bags from garden centers and nurseries. Work it into your soil at planting time, and use it as a mulch once the new plants sprout.
• It’s all about location, location, location. In partially shaded areas I grow blueberries, Swiss chard, spinach, and peas. I take advantage of the heat reflected off the house and being absorbed by concrete walkways and driveways. Tomatoes, basil, eggplants and peppers do great in pots in these areas. All night long the concrete releases stored solar heat that these plants thrive on.

These tips written by Savvy Gardener staff can help you get the most out of your growing space—grow your own food organically and reap the healthy benefits. Remember, healthy gardens grow healthy food!

Food Gardening Basics

Pick the best location

• Choose the sunniest spot to create your garden. Most vegetables love sunshine—6+ hours per day if they can get it—though some greens and herbs can manage with less. Growing edibles in containers is one way to find a place where they get enough light.
• Start small. You can grow a food garden in a pot on your houseboat, a raised garden bed, or a small patch behind your house. As you see what works for you, you can make your garden larger!
• Planting by the street? The grass area between your sidewalk and the street is called a planting strip, and many gardeners are turning to these areas for growing ornamentals and edibles. But is it safe to grow food? The soils in planting strips may be contaminated by cars or other sources of pollution. If you are considering growing food in your planting strip, the soil should be tested first; see Testing Your Soil below. The City of Seattle encourages the beautification of planting strips. Visit Growing Food in Planting Strips.

Nourish your soil

• Compost is gold. When it comes to creating a healthy garden bed, compost is your black gold. Whether you are building a raised bed or filling a pot, working compost into the soil will help provide the conditions plants need to thrive naturally.
• Adequate drainage is necessary. To make sure oxygen and nutrients reach the plant’s roots, good drainage is imperative. If you have drainage problems, consider raised beds. You can more easily provide the conditions plants love—a loose, rich blend of soil and compost.
• Testing your soil. A simple kit you can buy at a garden center will help you determine your soil pH so you know what you have to work with.  If you are concerned about soil contamination from prior uses, such as runoff from a road or cars parked on your planting strip, call the Garden Hotline for advice on soil testing. The Hotline recommends soil testing, even if contaminants are not a concern, to find out about the nutrient levels and amount of organic matter in your soil. Visit the King Conservation District to find out about free soil tests.

Ready, set, plant!

• What to plant. You know what your household likes to eat, but it’s also fun to experiment. Match your likes with your site’s conditions by talking with your local nursery staff. Or consult Seattle Tilth’s Maritime Northwest Garden Guide for recommended varieties and planting techniques—such as rotating your crops—and tips for the Puget Sound region.
• Seeds or seedlings? Some crops grow easily from seed, such as kale, salad mixes, and chard. In other cases, purchasing seedlings gives you a head start that will put your food on the table in—almost—the blink of an eye. Organically grown seedlings can be found at some nursery and garden centers, farmers' markets, local plant sales—and even some supermarkets!
• Try both approaches and see what works for you. Choose seedlings with healthy color, leaves, and roots.
  If you buy from a greenhouse, let the plants acclimate (adjust to the temperature fluctuations outside of the greenhouse) by leaving them outside in their containers for about a week before planting, bringing them in at night if the weather is chilly, and protecting them from bright sunlight. Be sure to water daily, as potted plants will dry out quickly until planted and mulched.

Tender loving care

• Water wisely. Check the soil moisture before watering. With a good mulch layer in place, you may be surprised at how moist the soil stays. When you do water, your edible plants benefit most from deep yet infrequent watering. Deeper root systems mean healthier, resilient plants.
  • For smaller gardens, hand watering is probably your best bet, but for larger gardens, you may want to consider drip irrigation. See last summer's Savvy Gardener article on this topic. Both options use water efficiently, help to keep water off the leaves (which can prevent disease) and directs water to the roots, where plants want it.
  • When to water. Watering either in early morning or evening reduces water evaporation and is better for your plants. See last summer’s Savvy Gardener article on watering food crops for more details.
• Cluster plants with similar water and sunlight needs so they’ll have what they need to flourish. Space your plants closely enough to shade the soil from direct sunlight, but don’t overcrowd them. Remember to consider their full-grown size too.
• Add mulch. Mulching your plants—compost is ideal for food gardens—helps hold moisture, prevents weeds, and protects the soil from wind and rain. As the mulch breaks down over time, it enriches your soil. Desired mulch thickness depends on the type of plant and its size, but about two inches is right for most annual veggies. Up to four inches can be used for trees and berries, and wood chips can be better than compost in these cases, as it lasts longer.
• Keep your garden weeded. Weeds will compete with your crops for water and nutrients, and also may harbor pests. Small weeds are much easier to pull!

When your garden begins to produce, you may be surprised at its abundance. Enjoy your harvest and share the bounty. It is never too early to plan ahead for the next crop to plant. The resources in this article are loaded with practical tips on what to plan and when. Visit the new Backyard Farming section of IPMopedia for practical information at your fingertips.

Resources

See Savvy Classes for a list of all topics and locations, including two April classes by Marianne on food gardening.

Growing Food in the City. This new City of Seattle brochure covers the basics for urban food gardening and includes some resources of specific interest to Seattle residents.
View brochure > (pdf)

Edible Gardening for Washington and Oregon, by Marianne Binetti and Alison Beck; Lone Pine Publishing, 2010.

Growing Vegetables West of the Cascades, by Steve Solomon; Sasquatch Books, 2007.

Maritime Northwest Garden Guide, by Carl Elliot and Rob Peterson; Seattle Tilth, 2000.

Your Farm in the City: An Urban Dweller's Guide to Growing Food and Raising Animals, by Lisa Taylor; Seattle Tilth, 2011.

Grow Smart, Grow Safe—a gardener’s guide. Published by the Local Hazardous Waste Management Program in King County, this publication ranks pesticides, fertilizers and soil amendments, to help you find products that are least-hazardous to people, pets and the planet. To order a free copy of the Grow Smart booklet (pdf), call the Garden Hotline at (206) 633-0224.

Choose EnviroStars Certified Landscapers. The Local Hazardous Waste Management Program, King County provides a list of landscape and nursery professionals who have been certified as “EnviroStars” in King County. To find out more about the program and to access their easy, searchable database visit EnviroStars.

Gardening question? The Garden Hotline has your answer! Contact them at (206) 633-0224 or at help@gardenhotline.org.

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